We were in South Africa for most of September. See the South Africa 2006 Blog for notes.
When we returned, we found the flowers of summer were gone. In their place, the Colchicum were in full bloom! A few Sternbergia lutea were also in flower, and one lone scape of Crinum variabile was still in bloom. The hardy Hymenocallis occidentalis, that were just starting to bloom when we left, now had a few almost-ripe seeds instead.
In place of flowers, this season offers nuts. The black walnuts are all on the ground, waiting for someone to remove the husks. The English walnuts have long since disappeared, having been found by the squirrels as fast as they dropped.
A shelbark hickory tree dropped a few nuts, which my granddaughter must have found since they were lying on the front steps. Shelbarks are like hardy pecans, but the shells are as hard as a black walnut's. It takes special nutcrackers to crack these, if you want to recover any useful nutmeats from them.
The prize nuts, to me at least, are the Chinese Chestnuts. They are just hitting their stride now, leaving fresh crops on the ground every morning. There are too many of them for the even squirrels to take them all. There are too many of them for us to eat ourselves, too. Since some are wormy, and you can't always detect this before you cook them, we are reluctant to give them away.
Chestnuts, whether Chinese or Italian, can be roasted or boiled. We score the shells first, making an "X" that cuts through the tough skin, so they won't explode when we heat them. Boiled and peeled, they can be frozen for use long after the fresh chestnut season has ended. I prefer them roasted and eaten fresh and hot!
We are still moving pots into winter storage, either the heated shed or one of the greenhouses. Lifting so many pots -- and even just watching people 50 years younger than I am lift them -- brings home how much potting mix we drag around here in the course of a year. Some of those pots are 7.5 gal. in (nominal) size, and many are "5 gal." size. Is there any reason for so much potting mix?
According to Dr. Dave Lehmiller, the resident expert on Crinum for the International Bulb Society, it is important to grow Crinum in very large pots. Writing in HERBERTIA, he has recommended using pots that are up to 24 inches deep and wide. Using smaller pots, you get a bonsai effect that does not represent the way the plant grows in nature. In the wild, the bulbs grow deep in the ground and have a large, very extensive root mass.
In a discussion recently in the on-line group of the Pacific Bulb Society, Alberto Castillo of Argentina discussed the effects of growing bulbs in pots rather than in the ground. He has stated unequivocally that if you can't grow them directly in the ground, you should at least grow them in very large pots. Alberto has said the he grows even his rain lilies (Zephyranthes and Habranthus, with very small bulbs) in 5-gal. size containers.
My theory for why so many garden books recommend growing bulbs root-bound in small pots has been that the average gardener can't resist over-watering potted plants. Others contest this, suggesting instead that bulbs with perennial roots resent being disturbed but bloom better with more massive root systems, and hence the advice so often given.
Perhaps the extreme case of the irrational advice to under-pot is Clivia. In nature, Clivia grow on the ground, on rocks, on fallen tree trunks, and even in crotches of standing trees. They have extensive root systems which are well-exposed to air. Even the plants growing on the ground have their roots mostly running on the surface of the clay soil, covered by the duff of fallen leaves. In a pot, even in a very large pot, over the years a Clivia plant will literally fill the pot with its roots. It seems a great mistake to try to grow Clivia root-bound in a small pot. If your Clivia eventually becomes root-bound in a 5-gal. container, then you can reasonably leave it root-bound. Otherwise, pot it up into the next-larger size pot once it has mostly filled its current pot with its roots.